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Birthstone and diamond rings: durability and settings

How each month's birthstone holds up next to a diamond, which settings protect softer stones, and how to clean them.

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A birthstone and diamond ring pairs the hardest gem with one that may be much softer. That matters in a ring: GIA says earrings and necklaces face less risk of a gem hitting a hard surface. GIA says gem durability has three parts: hardness, toughness, and stability. This guide uses GIA's birthstone pages to show how each month's stone holds up and how to set and clean it.

What makes a gem durable in a ring?

GIA defines hardness as resistance to scratching, toughness as resistance to breaking and chipping, and stability as resistance to heat, light, and chemicals. It says the Mohs scale ranks hardness from 1 to 10 but is not linear: the gap between steps is not equal. Diamond sits at 10.

GIA says "Diamond is the hardest gemstone, but not necessarily the toughest." It adds that a hard blow can cleave or fracture a diamond. So a number on the Mohs scale is a start, not the whole answer.

How does each birthstone hold up?

Hardness figures below are from GIA's birthstone pages, except ruby's, which is from GIA's durability article. Some months have more than one stone.

January, Garnet: Mohs hardness 6.5 to 7.5. Not every garnet suits daily wear.
February, Amethyst: Mohs hardness 7. Suits daily ring wear; may need repolishing.
March, Aquamarine: Mohs hardness 7.5 to 8. Durable enough for daily wear.
March, Bloodstone: Mohs hardness 6.5 to 7.
April, Diamond: Mohs hardness 10.
May, Emerald: Mohs hardness 7.5 to 8. Commonly treated; filled stones need gentle care.
June, Pearl: Mohs hardness 2.5 to 3. Comparatively soft; put on after perfume and cosmetics.
June, Moonstone: Mohs hardness 6 to 6.5. Poor toughness.
June, Alexandrite: Mohs hardness 8.5. Excellent toughness.
July, Ruby: Mohs hardness 9. Second only to diamond, per GIA's July page.
August, Peridot: Mohs hardness 6.5 to 7. Not recommended for daily ring use.
August, Spinel: Mohs hardness 8.
August, Sardonyx: Mohs hardness 6.5 to 7. Take care in a ring; commonly dyed.
September, Sapphire: Mohs hardness 9. Excellent toughness.
October, Opal: Mohs hardness 5 to 6.5.
October, Tourmaline: Mohs hardness 7 to 7.5. GIA: "generally suitable for everyday wear."
November, Topaz: Mohs hardness 8. Poor toughness.
November, Citrine: Mohs hardness 7.
December, Turquoise: Mohs hardness 5 to 6. No steam or ultrasonic cleaning.
December, Tanzanite: Mohs hardness 6 to 7. Not recommended for daily ring wear.
December, Zircon: Mohs hardness 6 to 7.5. No steam or ultrasonic cleaning.

Which settings protect a softer birthstone?

GIA says: "Vulnerable points or corners are better protected with bezels, partial bezels, or V-shaped prongs." A bezel, GIA explains, is a thin metal strip pushed around the edge of a gem to hold it, and it leaves the stone less exposed than prongs do. Our ring settings guide compares the styles.

For a softer gem set in a ring, GIA suggests keeping the piece for special occasions. Ask the jeweler how the design protects the stone.

Does a softer stone change how you clean the ring?

Yes. GIA says warm soapy water and a soft brush are always a sound choice for garnet. For several stones, including moonstone, tourmaline, and topaz, GIA says to avoid ultrasonic and steam cleaners. GIA says fracture-filled emeralds should never go in an ultrasonic cleaner or hot dishwater.

GIA says chlorine, perfume, and makeup can damage pearls, and that "Pearl jewelry should be the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off." Our cleaning guide covers the diamond.

What should you ask the seller?

The FTC says your sales paperwork should record what the seller told you about origin, size, treatments, and care. It says treated stones might require special care. GIA says emeralds are commonly treated, so ask about any filler.

Ask whether the birthstone is natural or lab-grown. The FTC Jewelry Guides say the word "birthstone" should not be used for a lab-grown or imitation stone unless a word such as "laboratory-grown" or "imitation" comes immediately before it, with equal prominence. Our lab-grown vs natural guide covers diamonds.

Which birthstones suit a ring worn every day?

GIA's birthstone pages call out a few. It says sapphire's hardness of 9 and excellent toughness make it great for daily-wear rings, and that ruby's hardness is second only to diamond. It says alexandrite's 8.5 hardness and excellent toughness make it suitable for daily-wear rings, and that aquamarine is durable enough for everyday wear.

It says peridot and tanzanite are not recommended for daily ring wear, and pearls and opals sit far lower on the Mohs scale. GIA's durability article suggests wearing softer gems for special occasions rather than daily wear.

Sources: GIA, Birthstones (index and the 12 monthly birthstone pages); GIA 4Cs blog, More than the Mohs Scale: Understanding Gem Durability; GIA 4Cs blog, How to Buy a Three Stone Engagement Ring; FTC Consumer Advice, Buying Gemstones, Diamonds, and Pearls; eCFR, 16 CFR Part 23, Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries (FTC Jewelry Guides).